Royal Diadem Jewelers

Since i opened a proverbial can of worms yesterday,.. this is what an “Ideal Cut Diamond” is according to American Gem Society Laboratory standards:

all of the following content is directly from the AGS resources, as a Certified Gemologist Appraiser, AGS I am happy to refer you to the “customer” side of the site: https://www.americangemsociety.org/page/agsdiamondgrading

“The AGS 0–10 grading scale is easy to understand: the highest possible grade is zero, and the lowest is 10. Easy, huh?
So, a diamond with a color grade of 3 has less color than a diamond with a color grade of 5. Diamonds having less color are rarer; therefore, they may cost more. When writing the grades of a diamond using the AGS Scale, diamond Cut grade is first, then diamond Color, Clarity, then Carat Weight—in that order. If a diamond possessing the finest diamond Cut grade is also colorless, free of inclusions and blemishes, and weighs one carat, it would be written as: 0/0/0–1.000 carat. “

“Keep in mind that a well-cut diamond will have more life and sparkle than one with a lesser cut quality. Not only will an AGS Ideal cut diamond have more sparkle, but it can even appear to have a better face-up color or clarity! And, if you compare a well-cut small diamond side by side with a slightly larger diamond of lesser cut quality, the smaller diamond may look larger to the naked eye. Overall, it’s important to have your diamonds graded by a credentialed expert or a reputable diamond grading laboratory such as American Gem Society Laboratories. You need a certified appraiser that truly understands the Ideal diamond cut. “

The Science of Scintillation™ Scintillation Metrics and Maps
Scintillation is sparkle. Scintillation is the play of white and colored flashes of light seen when the diamond is viewed in motion. Viewable with the naked eye, scintillation is the life of the diamond. The two dynamic aspects of sparkle are called flash scintillation and fire scintillation.

Look for AGS jewelers to find reputable AGS member stores, and remember to ask for an American Gem Society Laboratory graded diamond.

As we enter September where the heat of summer begins to wane, and the cool winds of fall start to make their ways into our lives.  The colors of our wardrobe shifts, making Sapphire a perfect companion gem to match those new outfits.When you think of the word Sapphire, the color blue is probably the first thing that comes to mind, but did you know that Sapphire comes in every color of the rainbow, except for red?

Let me explain, Corundum is the species of gemstone that includes the varieties: Sapphire and Ruby. Surprise! Rubies and Sapphires are almost identical! It is only miniscule amounts of different trace elements in their chemical makeup that dictate the color of Corundum transforming it from it’s pure state, which is transparent, into the deep blues and commanding reds we are used to seeing in Sapphires and Rubies as well as every other hue imaginable. When the term Sapphire is used by itself, in jewelry world, it is assumed to be referring to the blue color. When corundum falls within a specific range of hue, tone and saturation it is called Ruby. To specify every other color, the color description is followed by the term Sapphire. For example Yellow Sapphire, Green Sapphire, Orange Sapphire and so on. If  red or reddish corundum is close to that “ruby zone” but is to light in saturation, it is Pink Sapphire. If it contains too much yellow, it’s Orange Sapphire and if it’s tone is dark it could end up being Brown Sapphire.

Origins

Sapphire comes from the Greek word “Sappheiros”, which was a term used to describe Lapis Lazuli an opaque blue gemstone. In ancient Greece, blue Sapphires were given as gifts to rulers of the lands to protect them from harm and envy. With time, a Sapphire became a symbol of nobility, truth, sincerity, and faithfulness. Romanticism has always gone hand in hand with sapphire. In the 1980’s this became mainstream as Lady Diana Spencer was engaged to Prince Charles of Wales in February 1981, and her ring was a lovely 18ct blue sapphire surrounded by diamonds in 18K white gold. Many remember the wedding of Princess Di and Prince Charles; it was the closest our popular culture has had to a real life fairy tale. Her choice to use a blue Sapphire as the center stone for her ring catapulted the idea of a Sapphire as the center stone for engagement rings into the forefront of the jewelry buying public and reinvigorated the age old idea of having a colored center stone. A choice which was much more common prior to the overwhelming marketing by De Beers in the early 1900’s that Diamond was the “right” choice for an engagement ring. The ripple effect of this event is not only felt today but it is growing, fed by the fuel of the engagement of Prince William and Kate Middleton in 2011 in which Prince William used the fairy tale ring of his late mother, Princess Diana, to propose. More and more brides are desirous for something unique, “Everyone has a diamond, I want something different.” is a common statement in today’s bridal market.

Geography of Sapphire

Sapphire can be found on almost every continent, but the best quality sapphire is found in Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Tanzania, Australia, and Madagascar. Sapphire found outside of these primary sources, tend to be lower quality. Sapphire that is found in Kashmir has some of the deepest, intense blues in the world and set the standard against which all other blue Sapphires are measured. In today’s millennial market, there is an increasing demand for Sapphires that break from the traditional deep blue that is the standard of the industry. For example, sapphires from Montana in the United States commonly have a light saturation and tone, yielding some stones with a delightful violet color

Chemical Composition, Crystal Structure, and Physical Properties

Natural sapphire occurs when aluminum and oxygen combine to create a compound, along with color-causing trace elements. Most quality sapphire grows in silicon free environments; however, since silicon is a commonly occurring element, this makes natural sapphire relatively uncommon. In its purest form, Sapphire is colorless, but trace elements like iron, titanium, chromium, and vanadium give all colored Sapphires and Rubies their unique color. Almost all Sapphires have internal characteristics that often dictate how the stone will be cut and fashioned. They are often cut in many standard shapes like round, oval, pear, and marquise. When stones are heavily included, they are typically cut into cabochons, a smooth stone with no facets, a domed top, and a flat or slightly domed underside. Sapphires can display a phenomenon called asterism, or the star effect. This star effect can be seen gliding along the curved surface of a cabochon; the phenomenon is caused by a light source reflecting on many tiny needlelike inclusions called silk.

Sapphire Jewelry

Sapphire gives us a range of colors that allow for many astonishing designs to be created. Deep rich blue is the most common color you will see in Sapphire jewelry, but pink, purple, white, green, orange, yellow are all used in necklaces, rings, bracelets, and earrings. Padparadscha is a rare and valuable pinkish-orange sapphire that imitates the color of a lotus blossom. Some colors can be scarce and can demand a premium price. Below are just a few examples of different color sapphire rings that we have produced featuring different and varied Sapphire colors.

Wear and care of Sapphire

Sapphire has a 9-9.5 on the Moh’s scale. The Moh’s scale of mineral hardness characterizes the scratch resistance of various minerals on an exponential scale from 10 to 0. The top of the scale is Diamond at 10 and graphite at 0. Due to its exceptional hardness, sapphire is ideal for heavy everyday wear.  This is why sapphire tends to be one of the primary colored gemstones in the market today and a common go-to for engagement rings with a colored center stone.

Romance is a feeling that awakens when the person who makes you smile gets close to you. Romance is when you hear your name being called by the voice that makes you feel warm on the inside. Romance is remembering when you first meet, your first kiss. Romance can occur in many shapes, colors and forms. Sapphire is similar to romance as it provides us with a range of colors, shapes, and sizes that captivate our eyes and our hearts. So this September come experience the wonderful world of color at Diadem Jewelers.



“I cannot write poetically, for I am no poet. I cannot make fine artistic phrases that cast light and shadow, for I am no painter. I can neither by signs nor by pantomime express my thoughts and feelings, for I am no dancer; but I can by tones, for I am a musician.” – Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart

This is not a post about how our custom pendants, reminiscent of musical notes, are delightful and different. Nor is it a post about how these elegantly simple necklaces can convey a warm message to a loved one that they are the song in your heart. Those things are true, but this post is more than that, it’s about what it really means to create and be creative.

Mozart is arguably the most well known composer in all of history. In summary of his own words, quoted above, Mozart knew who he was. He realized the talents and abilities he possessed were unique and he pursued them with great vigor, producing over 600 pieces in his relatively short life of thirty-five years. Every single person in this world is designed totally unique from every other soul. God as the creator and sustainer of all things, makes individuals with an unimaginable array of variety. This same God, who created the universe and everything in it Ex Nihlo or “out of nothing”, placed within the only creatures made in His image the ability to be creative.

Humans do not create, we only mimic a dim reflection of our creator, for we are unable to bring something into existence that was not already there, we are merely creative. We only borrow, imitate, and remix already existing elements. King Solomon in the book of Ecclesiastes made this point black and white, “What has been is what will be, and what has been done is what will be done, and there is nothing new under the sun.” Ecclesiastes 1:9 ESV This is as true today as it was after the fall of man. Even in things as trivial as our clothing is easily seen as cyclical borrowing from the past to make “new” ideas and jewelry is no different.

This is not to say that a person can’t claim being original or trying to make something different or stand out. We are, after all, each individually bestowed by the Creator with a specific personality and aptitude for all sorts of things. So why wouldn’t a person strive for variety? Creativity? Mozart framed it wonderfully by linking the creative arts all together, understanding that the same things he strove to produce in his music were the same things that every artist was trying to convey in his own craft, communication that conveyed thoughts, feelings, and emotion. This is how we relate to one another as humans. Once again, we are the only created beings with these attributes to feel, empathize, collaborate, and communicate in a way that others, regardless of who they are or where they are from, can understand.

We at Diadem Jewelers, like Mozart, know who we are and we are confident in that. We are not “the next big thing” We are not a designer name that will grace the pages of well known magazines or get mentioned from the red carpet. We are a jewelry store managed and operated by individuals who are dedicated to taking care of the needs of customers. Especially the greatest need of all, salvation.

Salvation from the imminent wrath of a righteous and holy God which comes only through believing: That man is totally sinful from birth because of the curse put on all creation after Adam and Eve committed the first acts of disobedience in the garden. That man cannot earn this salvation by any work done on earth. That God being infinite in knowledge and existence made a way before even time existed for sinful man to flee eternal punishment in hell for his sins. That way is only through repentance and faith in the son of God, the one true and living savior, Jesus Christ who said, “I am the way, and the truth, and the life. No one comes to the Father except though me.”

Believing in faith that Christ came to earth, was born of a virgin, lived a perfect and sinless life so that he might die a death we deserved to die. That he rose three days later, ascended to Heaven and will return at any moment of time to bring his elect, adopted, chosen and beloved sons and daughters into glory and communion with him forever in Heaven. While at the same time, bringing death, destruction and punishment for all those who would reject the truth of God in unrighteousness.

Finally, that these truths have been made plain to all mankind through the world around us in a general way and conveyed to us in a special way through the written, inherent, infallible, living and active word of God, contained in only the sixty-six books which together make up the complete and unalterable truth for all of life. The Bible. This is where creativity should lead us, to stand in awe at the feet of the one who created all things for his perfect plan and purposes.

There is nothing more romantic than the warm orange glow of a beautiful April sunset. The sun is sharing his warm with us, the  blooming flowers are filling the air with their lovely fragrances, the colors of Easter are appearing everywhere, and the sound of the laughter and good times are all around. April in the gemological world, provides us with a gemstone so beautiful and rare it has been associated with love for many centuries and will for years to come, Diamonds.

Origins

The love for diamonds began on their discovery in the rivers and streams of India. It has been estimated that diamonds began to be traded as early as the fourth century B.C. They would not begin their long journey to Europe until the 1400’s. From there they would become a must have accessory by the elite of Europe and then travel to the Americas. Diamond comes from the Greek word Adamas which means “invincible.” Given the fact that diamond is the hardest material in the world, its name is suited perfectly.

Photo courtesy of GIA

Geography of Diamond

Diamonds can be found in many parts of the world, from Arkansa all the way to Australia. Jubilee mine (Russia), Argyle (Australia), Catoca (Angola), Diavik (Canada) are some of the most important mines in the world. Australia, Africa, Brazil, Canada and Russia are the major suppliers of diamonds in the world.

Chemical Composition, Crystal Structure and Physical Properties

Diamonds are the only gemstone made of a single element: Carbon. Diamonds are 99.95% carbon, and the remaining 0.05% are other trace minerals that can affect the color or shape of the stone. Diamonds form at depths of 140 to 190 kilometers (87 to 117 miles) below the Earth’s mantle, here the temperature and pressure are just right to allow host rock minerals to provide the necessary carbon amount for diamonds to grow. Diamonds grow with a cubic crystal structure, but well-formed crystal grows in an octahedral shape (is two four-sided pyramids touching base to base.)

Photo courtesy of GIA

Diamond Jewelry

The beauty and durability of diamond make it perfect for any piece of jewelry. Rings, bracelets, wedding bands, pendants, even watches are adorned with the beautiful radiance that diamonds give us. Diamonds come in many shapes and colors, allowing the ability to go well with any color of metal it allows designers to create astonishing one of a kind piece. Diamonds are the first stone of choice for most engagement rings or companions to a colored center stone. Here at Diadem, we have had the pleasure of designing some unique one of a kind piece, some of our favorites are shown in the pictures below.

Wear and care of Diamond

The Moh’s scale of mineral hardness characterizes the scratch resistance of various minerals on an exponential scale from 10 to 0. Diamond is the highest in the scale with a 10; this makes it the hardest material, and it can only be scratched by another diamond. Diamonds are ideal for everyday wear thanks to their durability and their toughness, but diamonds can chip or break. Fancy cut diamonds like marquise, pears, princess, hearts and trillions have corners that can be brittle and cause the diamond to chip. This is why it is important to consider the necessities of each diamond and choose a mounting that will help the diamond be safe and perform for a lifetime.

The beauty, durability, and symbolism of diamonds granted it the nickname “a girl’s best friend.” The beauty of this stone is similar to that of the smile of your significant other when they smile at you and the whole world is full of color. The durability of diamond is akin to the promise of love that you and your significant other have towards one another; because even under pressure diamond stays strong and remains beautiful, just like the love that you and your significant other share. April gives us the beautiful sunset and memories to be created. With the stone of April in hand, the right time to ask the question“Will you marry me?”

What is death? Is it a right or a reality? Today we live in a culture obsessed with death where death is hailed as a right. Unfortunately, we will only see our morbid minded society move further toward the notion that we must “relieve the burden.” This imaginary burden on society that the “inconvenient”, elderly, enfeebled, and sick are a drain on resources. Those who currently demand a “right to die” will no longer have a “right” but a duty to do so. Death is not a right, it is a REALITY. In the Victorian era, less than two centuries ago, the mainstream mentality about death being a “right” was not the case.  The reality of death helped individuals to be thankful for the life that they did have. Symbols we now commonly associate with death (skulls, bones, urns, etc.) were commonly used in jewelry and not in a macabre way. Instead, they were used as a symbol to remind us of the truth, that life is precious and worth living, but death is an eminent reality. Such reminders about the blessing of life and the impending end, took form in many articles of jewelry. During the 17th, 18th and 19th centuries, so called, “mourning jewelry” was part of a larger industry of mourning. This industry was supported by an understanding of what mourning stood for and how it affected a person and the community.

The pinnacle of mourning jewelry, and also its swift decline, was seen in life and reign of Queen Victoria ( who ruled England and Ireland from June 20,1837 to her death in January 22,1901). The influence that she had over fashion of the time was unprecedented, since royalty were the celebrities of the day. If the queen did it, the upper class would mimic it and eventually the lower classes would follow suit. The industry of mourning was fueled greatly by Victoria’s choice to enter a perpetual state of mourning when her husband, Prince Albert, died in 1861. At the time, there existed such institutions as Jay’s Mourning Warehouse, which sold items like clothing and hats so that an individual could follow the societal protocol for mourning of a loved one.

These societal rules were set up by court mandates which were handed down from royalty. They outlined etiquette of the day and explained what was proper for being within the court of royalty. Whether one was a prince, duke, lord or any of their female equivalents, they were expected to follow these customs to a tee. The rules of etiquette covered many areas of life, everything from dress to behavior, even the “right” way to propose and of course, how to mourn. For example, proper mourning forbade the grieving individual from attending any joyous occasions, such as parties or weddings, and restricted the wardrobe to specific colors based on how long it had been since the person being mourned had died. Clothing was to be black only for the first year and eventually moved into dark purples and reds as color was gradually reintroduced into the wardrobe. It was said in the day, “Some widows never wore their colors again.” For Victoria, her vow of continual mourning made this statement true, as she stayed in black mourning clothes until her death.

Today it is possible to still find exquisite pieces of mourning jewelry from these time periods. In fact there is a whole community of collectors dedicated to the curating these tokens of remembrance. Those who study the jewelry of the period give wonderful insight into the meaning behind the pieces, from their imagery to the colors and even the gemstones used. Some examples are:  pearls in mourning jewelry represent the loss of a child, inscriptions and engravings in pieces often had a very popular phrase “Momento Mori”, which is a Latin expression that basically means, “remember that you have to die.” The line is seen engraved in many rings as a reminder to the living that there will come a day that all must die.

Here at Diadem Jewelers, as of this writing, we have two vintage mourning pieces and one modern piece, available for you to make your own.

The first is a mourning locket hand assembled in 9K yellow gold hung from a modern 14K yellow gold rope chain. Lockets like this commonly contained hair from the departed loved one woven into intricate patterns.

The second is a 10K yellow gold necklace with onyx stations. Onyx was routinely used in many mourning pieces because of its inherent black color. Many pieces of the period also featured black enamel.

The last piece could be considered mourning jewelry even though it is from the modern era. Custom made in 14K white gold, but also available in other metals and colors. We designed and produced a decorative bail to which a wedding band, usually of the lost husband, is soldered and hung from a chain.

After this look back in history, there is still the question of death being a “right” or a reality. The bible gives us a clear answer, in Hebrews 9:27 which says, “And inasmuch as it is appointed for man to die once and after this comes judgement.” (NASB)

Counter to today’s postmodern understanding of what life and death are, the Bible is clear that life is given by the great creator God and that life is also to be taken by the same perfectly just and holy God. Death is an imminent reality that we all will face and when that time comes we will face judgement for the life we lived and be ushered into eternity. Where those who have been redeemed by salvation in Christ alone through faith alone by the work of the Holy Spirit alone in their lives on earth will inherit eternal life with Christ. Sadly, those who have denied Christ as God and have turned to a works based righteousness thinking their good deeds are enough to get them into heaven will be punished for their sins for eternity in Hell. Let today be the day that “Momento Mori” will influence your mind to the truth of the Gospel that all men will stand before God and give an account.

Want to know more, please visit: http://www.sfofgso.org

Header image: Jan van Kessel, Flemish, 1626–1679, Vanitas Still Life

Momento Mori: Recuerda que debes Morir.

¿Qué es la muerte? ¿Es un derecho o una realidad? Hoy vivimos en una cultura obsesionada con la muerte. La muerte es aclamada como un derecho y sólo vemos nuestra mentalidad tan  mórbida moverse hacia la noción de que debemos “aliviar la carga”. La carga imaginaria sobre la sociedad de los “inconvenientes”, los ancianos, desabilitados y enfermos. Cuando las personas que actualmente exigen un “derecho a morir” ya no tendrán un “derecho”, sino un deber de hacerlo. La muerte no es un derecho, es una REALIDAD. En la era victoriana, menos de dos siglos atrás, nuestra mentalidad generalizada de que la la muerte es un “derecho” no era el caso. La realidad de la muerte ayudó a los individuos a estar agradecidos por la vida que tenían. Los símbolos que ahora asociamos comúnmente con la muerte (cráneos, huesos, urnas, etc.) se usaban en joyería no en un sentido macabro. Si no como un símbolo para recordarnos la verdad, que la vida es preciosa y vale la pena vivir, pero la muerte es una realidad eminente. Tales recordatorios sobre la bendición de la vida y el fin inminente, tomaron forma en muchos artículos de joyería. Durante los siglos XVII, XVIII y XIX, los llamados “joyas de luto” formaban parte de una industria más grande de luto. Esta industria fue apoyada por una comprensión de lo que el luto representa y cómo afectó a una persona y la comunidad.

El pináculo de la joyería de luto, y también su declinación rápida, fue visto en vida y reino de la reina Victoria (quien gobernó Inglaterra e Irlanda del 20 de junio de 1837 a su muerte el 22 de enero de 1901). La influencia que tenía sobre la moda de la época era inaudita, ya que la realeza eran las celebridades de la época. Si la reina lo hacía, la clase alta lo imitaría y eventualmente las clases bajas seguirían su ejemplo. La industria del luto fue alimentada en gran medida por la elección de Victoria para entrar en un estado de luto perpetuo cuando su esposo, el príncipe Albert, murió en 1861. En ese momento, existían instituciones tales como Jay’s Mourning Warehouse, que vendía artículos como ropa y sombreros para que un individuo pudiera seguir el protocolo social para el luto de un ser querido.

Estas normas de la sociedad fueron establecidas por los mandatos de los tribunales que se dictaron de la realeza. Ellos describieron la etiqueta del día y explicaron lo que era apropiado para estar dentro de la corte de la realeza. Si se trataba de un príncipe, duque, señor o cualquiera de sus equivalentes femeninos, se esperaba que siguieran estas costumbres al pie de la letra. Las reglas de la etiqueta cubrían muchas áreas de la vida, desde vestimenta hasta comportamiento, incluso la manera “correcta” de proponer y, por supuesto, cómo llorar. Por ejemplo, el luto propio prohibía al individuo afligido asistir a cualquier ocasión feliz, como fiestas o bodas, y restringía el vestuario a colores específicos basados ​​en cuánto tiempo había pasado desde que la persona que estaba de luto había muerto. La ropa iba a ser negra sólo para el primer año y finalmente se trasladó a morados y rojos volviendo a darle color al armario de la persona en luto. Se decía: “Algunas viudas nunca volvieron a ponerse colores.” Para Victoria, su voto de luto continuo hizo esta afirmación verídica, ya que se quedó en ropa de luto negra hasta su muerte en 1901.

Hoy en día es posible todavía encontrar exquisitas piezas de joyería de luto de esos tiempos. De hecho, hay toda una comunidad de coleccionistas dedicados a coleccionar estos símbolos de recuerdo. Los que estudian las joyas de la época dan una visión maravillosa del significado detrás de las piezas, desde sus imágenes hasta los colores e incluso las piedras preciosas utilizadas. Algunos ejemplos del uso de piedras y grabados son: perlas en joyas de duelo representan la pérdida de un niño, inscripciones y grabados en piezas que comúnmente eran el nombre del difunto, y una frase muy popular “Momento Mori”, que es una expresión latina que básicamente significa “recuerda que tienes que morir”. La línea se ve grabada en muchos anillos como un recordatorio a los vivos de que vendrá un día en que todos deben morir.

Aquí en Diadem Jewelers tenemos dos piezas de luto antiguas y una pieza moderna, que están en venta.

El primero es un collar de luto montado en oro amarillo de 9K colgado de una cadena moderna de oro amarillo 14K. Estos collares tenian pelos del difunto y normalmente estaban entrensados en patrones muy dificiles.

El segundo es un collar de oro amarillo 10K con estaciones de ónix. ónix se usó rutinariamente en muchas piezas de luto debido a su color negro inherente. Muchos pedazos del período también ofrecieron esmalte negro.

La última pieza podría ser considerada una joya de luto, aunque es de la era moderna. En oro blanco 14K, pero también disponible en otros metales y colores. Diseñamos y produjimos una fianza decorativa a la cual una argolla de boda, generalmente del marido perdido, se suelda y se cuelga de una cadena.

Después de toda esta impresionante mirada hacia atrás en la historia, todavía hay la cuestión de si la muerte es  “derecho o una realidad”? Bueno, la Biblia nos da una respuesta clara a esto y se puede encontrar en Hebreos 9:27 que dice: “Y en la medida en que se designa para que el hombre muera una vez y después de esto viene el juicio”.

En contra de la comprensión de hoy de lo que es la vida y la muerte, la Biblia es clara que la vida es dada por el gran Dios creador y que la vida también debe ser tomada por el mismo Dios perfectamente justo y santo.

La muerte es una realidad inminente que todos enfrentaremos algún día y cuando llegue el momento, enfrentaremos el juicio por la vida que vivimos.

Header image: Jan van Kessel, Flemish, 1626–1679, Vanitas Still Life